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Best Tactical Flashlights [30 Oct 2016|04:25pm]

[ mood | cheerful ]

Do you ever drive by yourself at night?
Do you have a family to protect?
If a burglar were to break into your home tonight, would you be prepared?

With stricter gun laws to contend with, Americans are searching for better ways to protect themselves and their families against crime; in addition to preparing themselves in case of an emergency.

The solution? Tactical flashlights. These are becoming such popular self-defense tools in the wake of recent recent events that some companies like 1TAC who make the TC1200 Tactical Flashlights can't keep up with demand.

The TC1200 Tactical Flashlight is currently the most popular tactical flashlight on the market due to it's 1200 lumen "strobe mode" that allows the user to flash an intense blinding strobe light into an attackers eyes, leaving them "disoriented beyond belief".

Check Details:

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this year's Christmas project [20 Dec 2011|08:44am]

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1930's cast iron fireplace insert.... [28 Nov 2011|12:46pm]

[ mood | cheerful ]

I am hoping someone can help with this, my husband and I have a 1933 Sears and Roebucks kit home model #12010 A... The fire place in our living-room is having some issues. We know it is missing a metal plate, hence why the people that did live in our house, put bricks in place of the metal plate. Our current issues is what did this metal plate look like, and how large was it. 

The print on the cast iron for the fireplace says "Improved. National . 20" cast number 905. I have done many searches on line for this company name and I am not finding anything. I have also called sears and confused the hell out of some poor sap who apparently had no clue that Sears at one point of time in history sold mail order kit homes... So my question and hope is that maybe someone here might recognize the fireplace insert as something similar to what they have or recognize the name of the company that made the cast iron pieces to the fireplace. We have someone who can fabricate us a new piece but we really need to know what the piece looks like. Our only other option is to remove the old fireplace insert and replace it with a wood burning stove or something along those line which we would very much prefer not to do...

Can anyone one help with this?
2 comments|post comment

[27 Nov 2011|05:57pm]

What is the best tool for removing tile from concrete? i am willing to rent one. i have read different things so im not sure. its for a small bathroom.
2 comments|post comment

[06 Nov 2011|01:03am]

My laundry room is in the basement and the floor is a disaster. The washer drains into a pipe in the floor, which is lower than the rest of the basement. I want to redo the floor, but the room is used so much that I can't tile it and then have to wait 2-3 days to walk on it. It's a concrete floor, but since the basement has very little ventilation, I really don't want to epoxy it. I was wondering if I can paint it or put down sticky tile and glue the tile so that it will never come up. My concern is that the floor gets wet, both from the washer and we have to replace the door that won't open because if it rains hard, water comes in under the door.
7 comments|post comment

Other Home Maintenance Communities? [02 Sep 2011|09:43am]

Are there any active communities on LJ for questions related to home maintenance but not necessarily DIY? (For instance if I want to know whether a contractor would be taking the proper steps when they do a project, etc.)
1 comment|post comment

Painting kitchen cabinets [01 Sep 2011|01:57pm]

My kitchen cabinets need a fresh coat of paint. They are currently painted a high gloss white, and it is very possible the original paint is oil based. (previous homeowner)
My questions revolve around how to prep the cabinets for painting. I was planning on cleaning them with vinegar, but do I need to sand them?

I would much prefer to repaint them with latex paint, but will it adhere to the oil based paint properly? (assuming it is oil based?)

Also, the hardware is a very ugly (and dirty) copper color. I plan on spray painting them black as a cheap alterntive to new hardware. I've never spray-painted before, but it looks so easy on TV. :) Any tips or tricks?

20 comments|post comment

Carpet Help please [31 Jul 2011|11:56am]

Ahhh previous homeowners... how you make me clutch my head in agony every day...

I tore out this built-in corner shelf and there's no carpet underneath! Eeee! What do I do?

- Even though we have extra previous tile, paint, light fixtures, paneling, and herbicides; they left no extra carpet.

- A new shelf will go over most of it, but not all of it.

- I'll probably replace the whole carpet in another 5 years (this is not easy, another story).

- I could take some carpet from the closet but it's a biiiiig closet and sometimes gets used as a party room.

- Yes, I'm doing something about that mismatched paneling. The ceiling is a matching sparkle popcorn.

No carpet under built in

Thank you!
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After a Leak [13 Feb 2011|05:55pm]

We replaced the piping on an under-the-kitchen-sink leak, but lifting up the plasticish covering under the sink that covers the wood beneath, there appears to be some moisture and spots of white mold under there. (I haven't seen it closely myself-- let my partner look since I'm pregnant). Ugh, our lungs already hurt.

She left it propped open a little to dry out. After doing some googling a bunch of sites on this she wants to try the thing where you wear a mask and use a bleach solution. (And air it out with a fan? We're also debating to what degree she should use a scrub brush or sand it as some sites suggest).

Does this sound like a bad plan?

At some point (in a month or two) we're hiring someone to do some other things and maybe he can replace the wood if necessary. Not sure how to determine if that's truly necessary, or if trying to deal with some mold one's self is just a bad idea.

I should note I did once live in an apartment ~10 years ago where such a situation occurred, the wood was replaced, and I still had to move out eventually due to ongoing lung problems, so I don't really think mold is necessarily a minor issue. That was a more extreme case, however (at one point mold was growing on the bathroom walls in that apartment).
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Replacing Pipes [11 Feb 2011|03:54pm]

I don't know that this is really a DIY job, but I thought you'd have opinions.

When replacing metal piping under the kitchen sink, should one go with metal again or PVC? The internet consensus seems to be switch to PVC because it's more "durable," but I thought I'd query live people.
16 comments|post comment

Priming [23 Jan 2011|01:16pm]

Has anyone had any experience  with spray primer?  I bought a gallon of Kiltz primer to go over the walls in my SIL's old room ( remodeling my mil's home) and it's going on very thin.  I have to cover spray paint, permanent marker, oil based paints & just about anything else she could have used to write all over her walls.

My hope is that the spray primer will cover better in the hard to prime areas. 

Also, anyone have any tips on making wall repairs look even & flush with the rest of the wall? 

5 comments|post comment

Chisel Out Tile? [21 Dec 2010|05:52pm]

Hello Fellow DIYers,

I'm new here, but I think I know a few of you. I probably should have joined years ago.

I have two seahorse tiles in amongst all the other non-seahorse tiles. I have the "correct" tiles. I have seen people chisel out individual tiles before. Any tips on doing this and how to get the grout to closely match? Thank you.

2 Seahorse tiles

If you'd like, you can see what we've done with my 1964 "70's Downstairs, 80's Upstairs: 45 Years of DIY!" home.
11 comments|post comment

Problem refinishing a floor [06 Nov 2010|07:58pm]

I'm in an older house, 50 years old. We pulled the carpet up in the hall thinking that we'd look at the hardwood underneath to see if it was worth refinishing or needed a new floor. The living room carpet will come up too eventually, but we thought we'd work on the hall first and whatever we decide to do will carry over into the living room.

It looks like the floor is salvageable. It had 2 or 3 big spots that probably came from dog or cat urine. Those we got out with peroxide soaked towels. I've sanded enough to tell that I can get it smooth enough. We aren't looking to make the floor look new so nail holes and things like that can be filled. It can ave some character.

BUT, and here it comes. My problem is that when the carpet was put down the carpet layers used a box cutter to cut the padding and cut the wood too. So there are razor blade marks around where the tack strip was and a few all the way across the hall. They don't look too bad until you put any kind of liquid on the floor, stain, sealer, anything like that. And then they turn into almost black lines. They don't look at all natural and I don't think we'll salvage the floor unless we can find a way to keep the lines from showing up so prominently.

Anyone have any suggestions. I don't think I can sand deep enough to get them out. Seems a shame to not be able to salvage the floor over a few cuts by the carpet layers.

Thanks for any help.
7 comments|post comment

Kitchen Redo [05 Sep 2010|09:13pm]


This was our kitchen before we decided to redo it. It was pretty bland, our sellers did the tile backsplash, however they didn't use spacers, so the tile was all over the place and the cupboard doors weren't on all the way, it looks like they just stuck them up and hadn't repainted them in years as you could see all of the food and whatnot that had been spilled on them.

And now...Collapse )
3 comments|post comment

Advice to get past a dumb mistake... [13 Aug 2010|03:12pm]

I bought a new fridge. The measurements were fine for the old spot - with 1/2" to spare. Well, we all know that house stuff never seems to be on a right angle or exact measurements all the way through... So now I have a fridge that doesn't fit (and return is not possible).

Exploring my options with associated problems -
1. Shave a little cabinet and tile off of one side of my kitchen counters (I know tile doesn't necessarily *shave* so I'd be chipping out the lip on the counter and need to replace it with something else).
2. Move the freestanding cabinet on one side of it out an inch or so (I'm certain the kitchen floor tile doesn't extend beneath it, so it will leave a gap. Plus the tile against the wall, although the grout is already cracked between the counter and it, would then be mismatched).
3. Against the spirit of this community, paying someone to do one of these tasks...

4. Any other suggestions, or advice on the ones I've thrown out there? I've never laid tile (well, correction, I did with my mom when I was a teenager). I don't have a wealth of tools.

I'm looking for the cheapest/least intensive way that I can make this work, without making my kitchen look ghetto. Help?
9 comments|post comment

Peel & stick [13 Aug 2010|05:54pm]

This isn't a 100% DIY post, but a question that I hope someone can answer. 

My kitchen is old, I'm guessing it's probably been 10 years since the floor was put down (at least 5), and it's peel&stick tile. Now my question is, what does the glue/adhesive smell like? One of my cats decided to use the pantry as her litter box at least once, in the corner. I used Nature's Miracle, but there's still a smell of cat piss, although it seems like it's coming from the corner she didn't use as well. I'm wondering if it's possible it's the adhesive?

4 comments|post comment

Bathroom Remodel [11 Aug 2010|10:05pm]

I'm new here, but wanted to put up the pictures of our bathroom before and afters.


Read more...Collapse )
6 comments|post comment

Duct cleaning? [11 Aug 2010|03:14pm]

I know this isn't a do it yourself question and I'm sorry about that but this is what I consider to be a good knowledge data base so please for give me. :)

Our ducts need cleaning. I'm seeing prices ranging from 300 bucks to a grand. Any home owners out there have a clue what this should cost, more or less?
3 comments|post comment

What does your closet? [20 Jul 2010|11:49am]

Case says about your character: inventing his image, you showed courage, confidence, sense of proportion, and perhaps even a sense of humor - after all cabinet can be not only rigorous, but fun.

шкаф-купе, чарли чаплин


decomebel, арсентьев в.а, шкаф-купе, арсентьев владимир, арсентьев
Designer Arsentjev Vladimir.
3 comments|post comment

Bricks or Mortar? [12 Jul 2010|08:33am]

I wish to hang a piece of art on an outside brick wall.

Is it better to place the anchor in the brick, or in the mortar between the bricks? Why?

If it matters, the house is 50 years old and the brick wall in question is well protected from the elements by the patio cover.

Thanks in advance.
3 comments|post comment

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